Compatibility: Second Generation  (2007=) Turbo Charged Mini Cooper.

ALTA Performance has designed a Cold Air Intake System that not only looks great but Provides a significant improvement in Horsepower and Torque.

Parts Included with the ALTA R56 Cold Air Intake system:
ALTA R56 Air Box Shroud
ALTA Air Filter 2.75” ID
2.75” Silicone Elbow
3.25”-2.5” Silicone reducer coupler
4x  Size 48 hose clamps
Size 36 hose clamp
2x M8x40 Hex head bolt
2x M8 Flat washers
2x M8 fender washer
2x M8 Nut
ALTA badge

Removal of factory air box:  Note:  Take great care with your MAF Sensor

1 Open hood and disconnect the batteries – terminal. (Battery is located in passenger side window cowl cover)
2 Locate MAF sensor housing, and remove hose clamp securing MAF housing to turbo inlet hose.
Remove Electrical connection on MAF sensor.
3 Remove Air box top from OEM air box bottom.  Remove top by loosening 4 torx screws on front side of box.
Once loosened, lift front forward and take off the clips at back of box.
4 Unbolt MAF housing from air box top. Take extreme care in not dropping MAF housing, as this is an easily damaged item

5 Locate fresh air pipe where it enters air box bottom.
This connection releases by twisting roughly 60 degrees, then pulling straight off.
There is a large o-ring located behind this flange and can make the tube very hard to remove from air box.
Spraying down with some penetrating lube will help removal of pipe.
6 Remove torx screw located on passenger side of Air box bottom and remove air box from car.
Three other rubber snaps hold box bottom to intake manifold.

Installation of ALTA intake system:

1 Using supplied M8 bolts nuts and washers, install ALTA Mini Cooper R56 air box shroud onto intake manifold
and run bolts bolts through rubber mounts.
Carefully reach under box and manifold to install and tighten nuts and washers.
Make sure to leave rubber bushings on manifold as this provides some dampening from vibrations.
Tighten hoses clamps on fresh air tube and air box after bottom is fully installed and tightened.

AIR BOX SHROUD BOLTED TO TOP OF INTAKE MANIFOLD USING SUPPLIED BOLTS
2 Install supplied Silicone reducer coupler onto fresh air pipe and install hose clamp, but leave loose until ALTA shroud is tightened.
PICTURE SHOWING Mini Cooper MAF HOUSING, FRESH AIR PIPE, ALL CONNECTED TO AIR BOX SHROUD
(NO SILICONE ELBOW)
3 Install MAF housing back into Turbo inlet hose and tighten hose clamp securing MAF to inlet hose.
NOTE: Make sure to install housing in same direction it was removed.
The 2 bolt flange should be on the opposite side of Turbo inlet hose.
4 Install Silicone elbow (ALTA logo is readable) to MAF sensor housing and to upper Air box shroud tube fitting.
Make sure to install two size 48 hose clamps to elbow to secure hose to air box, and MAF housing.
European spec cars will need to install supplied tube after MAF housing to correctly connect to the turbo inlet.
5 Install supplied ALTA filter to inside tube fitting on air box.
Make sure to wipe out excess oil from inside of filter. Failure to do may cause filter to fall off of air box.

MAF SENSOR AND SILICONE ELBOW INSTALLED TO AIR BOX SHROUD

6 Re-connect MAF sensor plug and (-) battery terminal and start car.
7 If car starts and runs properly, continue to next step.

Shown with older trim installed edge of air box. (not included)

Hood Scoop removal(optional)
1 Remove black plastic hood scoop plug by removing OEM scoop.
To remove scoop locate plug under hood, and remove to reveal screw.
With screw removed, scoop is held in place with snaps, which are very tight!
Pull straight up on scoop to remove; this step takes a lot of force.
2 With scoop removed, remove black plastic scoop plug by removing screws holding it to scoop.
Take great care not to damage paint during this process.
3 Install scoop back onto hood, making sure to secure with both the snaps and screw removed earlier.
It requires some force to get the snaps back into place.

Purchasing, Dynographs and Information Can be Found By click on the Logo Below.

Available in Both Black and Red

Second Generation Turbo Charged Mini Cooper.

ALTA Performance has designed a Front Mount Intercooler that not only looks great but Provides a significant improvement in Horsepower and Torque.

In a very short amount of time you can get one of the biggest horsepower increases for your Mini Cooper S or JCW

Parts included with the ALTA R56 Front Mount Intercooler are:

ALTA R56 Front Mounted Intercooler
Bubble on Side Trim
Zip Ties

Removal Of Front Bumper and OEM Intercooler:

1. Open hood, locate and remove (6) pop-its fasteners from upper grill.

2. Remove the lower Chrome trim from your Mini Coopers upper grill. Trim is released by pulling up on small tabs on back of trim.

3. Locate 4 tabs sticking out from lower part of upper grill and push to side to release upper grill.

4. Locate the 2 Torx Screws behind grill and remove.

5. Remove 4 screw-in pop-it fasteners on lower half of inner fender liner on both side of your Mini Cooper.

6. Locate and remove fog light cover on inside of fender well, and unplug fog lights and driving light plugs.
On passenger side, locate and unplug air temp sensor.

7. Pull back your Mini Coopers fender liner, locate and remove side marker plug, and pop-it connector holding upper and lower bumper together.

8. Remove first 3 points of connection on fender flair.  To release fittings use needle noise pliers to squeeze fitting from behind. (Note:These fittings are fragile, be careful when pulling bottom half of fender flair)

9. With lower part of fender flair pulled back, locate and remove (Torx) screw behind fender flair holding bumper skin to body.

10. Under bottom of bumper, locate and remove 2 Torx screws and 4 Pop-it fasteners.

11. Carefully remove bumper from car, and place on smooth clean surface.

12. Locate 2 torx bits holding OEM intercooler to chassis, and remove.

13. Take note as to direction hose clamps were facing before loosening.
Loosen clamps securing boost tubes to intercooler.
Note: Using a bent awl will help to free up rubber boost tube around intercooler.

14. Remove intercooler from car by carefully pulling and twisting intercooler from boost tubes.

15. Using picture below, locate and trim off plastic bracket that is in front of AC condenser.
Test fit ALTA intercooler to chassisto ensure enough has been removed.
Note: Using an Air tool, or Dremel tool will make for easy removal of plastic.

16. Due to the tight clearance between intercooler inlets and chassis, some shaving of plastic may be needed.
We recommend temporarily installing intercooler to determine if clearance needs to be made.
Using Dremel Tool or Air tool, remove material as needed.

17. Install ALTA intercooler in place of Mini Cooper’s OEM intercooler, and connect boost tubes to intercooler.
Before tightening clamps, ensure they are positioned properly to allow access to nut.

18. Once intercooler is installed and hose clamps are tightened, install supplied trim to upper edge of bumper beam.
Face the “bubble” part of trim toward intercooler.
The trim is used to add insulation between intercooler core and beam.
Note: Remove “bubble” portion from trim where it passes over intercooler core on outside edges.

19. Start car and make sure no Check engine lights appear, and engine runs smoothly.
If engine runs rough or CEL is on, check for poor seal/connection of boost tube to intercooler.

20. On back of bumper locate Air temp sensor and unclip from bumper and ziptie to wire harness.
21. On backside of bumper, locate small diverter and trim from bumper using X-acto or razerblade knife.

22. Determine if OEM grill is to be left in bumper. If grill is to be left in bumper, temporarily install bumper to car and locate tabs on backside of bumper and trim down slightly to add clearance.

23. If grill is to be removed, unsnap from bumper opening, and install bumper cover onto car.
Locate tabs that interfere with intercooler and trim off.

24. Once bumper cover is trimmed, reinstall back onto chassis. Start with step number 10 and work backwards.

25. Once installation is complete, again, start car and make sure no check engine lights appear.

Picture of Fully Installed Intercooler

Purchasing, Dynographs and Information Can be Found By click on the Logo Below.

Available in Both Silver and Stealth Black

Oxybluecoop is an active member on the Motoring Alliance mini forum and we are proud to have one of his diy how-to’s for the Mini Cooper on our site.
Check out the winning post: How to Seafoam your Mini Coooper
If you are interested in winning free  parts check out: Free Mini Cooper Parts

The Free giveaways are made possible by you supporting our advertisers.
Thanks again everyone and we are already in the process of getting the next prize ready!

Sponsored by:

Mini Coopers need more negative front camber for anything other than straight line racing and driving. Increasing negative camber allows more even tire wear and improves lateral load traction. Here’s a way to get a little FREE negative front camber. That is, nearly free; this is a built-in solution so there are no parts to buy, but you’ll need an alignment after.

Tools Needed to Adjust The Mini Coopers Camber

Pliers
Short Screw
Screw Driver
Tape
Car Stands
Hydraulic Jack

Mini Cooper Camber Adjustment Procedure:
Place the front of the vehicle on stands, apply tape around the base of the nylon stud to protect the paint, screw a short screw in the top of the nylon stud to prevent it from collapsing when gripped, grasp with pliers and extract the stud.

Place a jack under the Mini Coopers front wheel, loosen the strut nuts and lift the wheel enough to raise the nuts from the strut tower, reach above the tire and push the strut towards the engine. Tighten the nuts to 25 ft-lb. Remove the jack and lower the vehicle.

Original Post from Keith Owner and operator of Werkin Mini.  The post can be found at the Motoring Alliance Forums

1. Start the engine
2. Press and hold the flat tire reset button (its located between the seats) for 5 seconds.
3. Release button and start driving.

You will have to wait few minutes before the Flat Tire Monitor will reset itself.

2007 MINI Cooper & S Coupes

1. Start the engine.
2. Briefly press the button in the turn indicator lever repeatedly until “SET/INFO” is displayed(push the turn signal in.
3. Press and hold the button until the display on your speedometer changes.
4. Briefly press the button repeatedly until the corresponding symbol and “RESET” are displayed.
5. Press and hold the button until the display changes.
6. Your done Start driving.

Source: MiniMania

Service Menu Access:

1. Insert Key
2. Do not press clutch and/or brake
3. Press Start button
4. Wait until the relevant Service symbol disappears on the Rev counter display
5. Immediately after the symbol goes out – Press and hold Both buttons on the Rev Counter
6. Continue to hold – The system will run a dash light check
7. Continue to hold – Display will then show VIN / Menu.
8. Continue to hold through this until the time reappears on the display.
9. Release ONLY the Right Button (Trip Reset) for about a second, and then press and hold again (whilst still holding the LH button).
10. The display will show the Front Brake Symbol. You are now in the Service Menu
11. Using the BC Button on the indicator stalk to scroll through to the relevant symbol – i.e. Rear Brakes

12. To Reset the warning indicator light – Press & Hold the BC Button at the relevant symbol until RESET appears – then press and hold again until the process is complete.

13. Turn Off and On the Ignition again – Warning should now have gone.

Original Post By Nathan the founder of the Motoring Alliance Mini Cooper Online Community

Sponsored by:

Installing worn or broken spring can bring back new life to your Mini Cooper as well as help with performance.  If your looking to change or replace your suspension springs to lower your car or to increase performance this guide will help take you through the process step by step.

Tools Needed:
13mm, 16mm, 18mm, and 21mm standard sockets; 21mm strut socket BMW # 31 2 210 (Hazet)
Long 6mm & 5mm Allen wrenches, 5mm Allen socket
16mm box end wrench, 17mm open end wrench
Ratchet
Long breaker bar
Dead blow or rubber mallet
Torque wrenches to accommodate 22 ft-lb to 103 ft-lb values R50-53, 121 ft-lb for the R56.

Equipment Needed:
Auto jack or lift
Vehicle stands

Alternative Tools:
Spring compressor
Air ratchet
Impact wrench and 21mm thinwall deepset socket

Lift the Vehicle and place on stands, remove the wheels, pull the front brake lines and ABS/pad sensor wire off the strut, and disconnect the stock drop link from the strut using a 16mm socket for the nut and a 17mm open end wrench to hold the bolt from behind the mount. The drop links shown during the spring install procedure are aftermarket that requires a 14mm socket and 13mm open end wrench.

Remove the pinch bolt with an 18mm socket, using a breaker bar to loosen and a ratchet to remove. R56 Models have a ribbed flare nut on the end of the bolt, loosen the bolt head only.

Apply lubricant to the lower end of the front strut where it enters the steering knuckle.

Place a stick on the jack’s lift pad and use as leverage under the lower spring perch to compress the spring and push the strut out of the steering knuckle. A few taps with a dead blow hammer may be needed to break it free. Exercise cautions if a hand is needed to stabilize the strut, do not place the hand or fingers between the strut & stick or any place where it could be trapped if the strut shifts abruptly.

R56 models will not require compression of the spring.

Unscrew the guide support nuts while grasping the strut, once freed, lower the strut carefully feeding past the brake line and wire then remove outward and upward from the wheel well.

Remove the bearing dust cap and place the strut on its side. Use a block of wood to leverage the Allen wrench and body weight to leverage the strut shaft nut using the special 21mm strut socket on a long breaker bar. This can be performed with the strut upright but it requires much upper body strength. Unscrew the top nut until the nylon lock has cleared the shaft threads(A spring compressor is highly recommended during this procedure!).

Without a spring compressor (A spring compressor is highly recommended during this procedure!) the nut can be removed safely using the “buddy method”. As a partner applies weight on the guide support, unscrew the last remaining threads, the partner releases pressure smoothly, and off comes the upper mount. justintime (seated) and simplekid15 (standing) demonstrate how it’s done.

A spring compressor will provide stability and facilitate removal if the install is performed solo.

The Mini Cooper R56 models have a nylon stud on the guide support, removing the nylon piece allows the guide support to shift a little, providing an extra half degree negative camber if desired.

After the replacement spring has been installed and the strut shaft nut tightened to 47 ft-lb, feed the strut into the strut tower, guiding the bolts through their mounting holes, while still grasping the strut, screw on the guide support nuts by hand to hold the strut in place then complete the fastening with a ratchet and torque to 25 ft-lb. For R56 models with the nylon stud removed, push the strut towards the engine to increase negative camber, before securing the nuts.

Clean the pinch bolt threads with brake cleaner and a wire brush; afterwards apply a small amount of anti-seize. The pinch bolts are exposed to oxidizing elements; anti-seize will help prevent a frozen bolt that could shear when attempting to extract.

Place a block of wood on the jack lift pad and raise the steering knuckle from under the outer ball joint nut. Mini Cooper S R56 location shown here.

Install and torque the pinch bolt to 60 ft-lb. On R56 models, after inserting the bolt hand tighten the end nut, apply torque to the bolt head only.

Torque the drop link to strut body at 41 ft-lb.

Be sure to place the drop link behind the strut to avoid making this mistake; oops.

Return the brake line and ABS wire to their strut body mounts and replace the bearing dust cover cap to declare the front strut has been completed; yippee!

Moving to the rear strut, remove the anti-sway bar drop link.

Pull the brake line & ABS sensor wire from the strut body.


Unscrew the bolts on the strut’s upper mount using a 13mm socket.

Loosen the lower strut bolt with a 21mm socket and breaker bar, attach a ratchet to unscrew, grasp the strut before removing the bolt completely to keep it from dropping and remove the strut.

Remove the strut shaft nut with a 16mm box end wrench and long 5mm Allen wrench. A spring compressor can be used on the stock springs but the H&Rs had to be installed using the “buddy method”.

Torque the shaft to 22 ft-lb using a 5mm Allen socket on a torque wrench in the reverse position while holding the nut with a 16mm box end wrench.

As with the front pinch bolt, clean the rear strut lower mount bolt and apply a small amount of anti-seize. Lift the strut into place under the vehicle and guide the lower mount bolt into place. Screw the bolt in until tight but don’t apply complete torque at this time.

Clean the upper mount bolt threads and apply a small amount of anti-seize. Raise the trailing arm with a jack and position the top of the strut within the chassis recess, line-up the upper mount holes and install the bolts, torque to 41 ft-lb.

Torque the lower strut mount on R50-53 models to 103 ft-lb; R56 models to 121 ft-lbs

Put the brake line and wire in their strut brackets, replace the lower bolt dust cover if your model has them, remount the wheels, torque the lug bolts at 89-92 ft-lb. for R50-53 models, 103 ft-lbs for R56 models, lower the vehicle.

Now go Get an Track Or Street Alignment!

Original Post from the Lone Star Mini Club by k-huevo at the Lone Star Mini Club

]]> http://www.minicooperspeed.com/mini-cooper-strut-springs-or-lowering-spring-installation/feed/ 4 http://www.minicooperspeed.com/how-to-seafoam-treatment-r55r56-mini-cooper/ http://www.minicooperspeed.com/how-to-seafoam-treatment-r55r56-mini-cooper/#comments Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:13:03 +0000 oxybluecoop http://www.minicooperspeed.com/?p=392 How to Clean and Remove Carbon Deposit buildup From Your 2nd Generation Mini Cooper

2007+ R55 R56

From:oxybluecoop

“I use Seafoam on regular basis on my Mini Cooper(right before my 3k oil changes) and was unable to find ANY videos of Seafoaming a MINI so I managed to throw together a quick video of some past treatments. I can’t emphasize enough how useful this product is on the N12/N14 engines with the high compression ratios and the PCV design. I’ve seen the cylinder heads from these engines after 20k+ and the amount of burnt oil/carbon buildup is ridiculous. You can pick a can up at Walmart or most auto parts stores for under ten bucks. Installing an Oil Catch Canister will also help in preventing sludge/carbon buildup. For you folks who are hesitant for fear of hydrolocking I’ve done this procedure every 3k for over 85k on the MINI and never had any catastrophic results. You will definitely notice a difference in performance after the treatment.”

This video was made by oxybluecoop over at the Motoring Alliance Mini Cooper Forum! The Motoring Alliance is a Mini Cooper forum/club that is very well organized, friendly and technical group that is open to all users for free!

Feel like saving yourself some money by changing your MINI Coopers oil?   This guide will show you how-to change your own oil and oil filter.

Tools/Supplies:

6 Quarts 5w30 oil (uses 4.4 quarts)
Oil Filter Kit
Socket set with a long extension… I used two together to reach the filter cap.
8mm hex socket or T-50 hex head oil drain plug.
8mm wrench to remove the coolant tank.
27mm socket for the oil filter cap.
Towels and cleaning supplies.
Rubber Gloves
Oil Catch Pan
Sheet for catching the stray oil.

Set the car up on ramps or on a secured jack.
Next I loosened the oil filler cap and unscrewed the 8mm hex socket or T-50 hex head for the oil drain.  Not all the way!  Put on rubber gloves and slide oil catch can underneith.

Loosen the oil plug bolt and allow the oil to drain into the catch can you placed below.  After the oil has drained loosen the (8mm wrench) coolent resevoir and move to the side.

Use the 27mm socket to unscrew the oil filter cap, removed it from the car, wipe everything clean,  Above you can see the socket and extension that was used for unscrewing the filter cap…

Now Reinstalled the oil drain plug (22.0 lbs/ft), and then the new filter and assembly(18.5 lbs/ft) added 4.4 quarts (roughly) of engine oil(do not reuse the old seals and make sure to use the new drain plug washer).

To Reset Service Indicators such as the Oil Service Interval.

To enter the service Menu:

Insert Key

Do not press clutch / brake

Press Start button

Wait until the Car / revelant Service symbol disappears on the Rev counter display

Immediately after the symbol goes out – Press and hold Both buttons on the Rev Counter

Continue to hold – the system will run a dash light check

Continue to hold

Display will then show VIN / Menu, – continue to hold through this until the time Reappears on the display.

Now release Only the Right hand Button (trip reset) for about a second, and then press and hold again (whilst still holding the LH button)

After another second or 2 the display will show the Front Brake Symbol You Are

Now in the Service Menu

Use the BC Button (on indicator stalk) to scroll through to the relevant symbol – eg Oil Reset or Rear Brakes

To Reset the warning indicator light – Press & Hold the BC Button at the revelant symbol until RESET appears – then press and hold again until the process is complete.

Turn Off and On the Ignition again – Warning should now have gone!

528im52 was nice enough to put this great how to video on youtube.  It features how to do a top side oil change using the BMP Topside Oil changer.

.

K03

Rumored 37mm Compressor Wheel

2007 + Mini Cooper S stock turbo Pictures

Hybrid may be possible if you do a K04 wheel and upgrading the internals aka thrust bearings, shaft, and larger turbine and compressor wheels. It was noted on the North American Motoring Forum that the k04 can go up to a 5mm wheel.

Stock Cooper S Turbo-Charger Pictures

Mini Cooper S JCW TurboCharger info:

Rumored to have a K03/K04 Hybrid

Rumored 41mm Compressor Wheel
20psi max
2mm larger Inlet

Mini JCW Compressor Map

Mini Cooper JCW Borgwarner OEM Turbo Pictures

For whatever reason you may need to remove your Mini Coopers Speedometer here is a two part diy speedometer removal guide made by war6763 on youtube.

I know when I first looked at my dash I had no idea that this many steps where involved just to remove that center unit!

Have fun and dont destroy your dash!  This will most likely apply to all the MINI line however year and trim levels may change the procedure.

This step by step diy guide to installing the boot stripes for a Mini Cooper will easily take you from start to finish and help make that Mini Cooper stand out in a crowd!  A big Thanks goes out to Matt Cook for allowing us to use and archive this information.

Here’s the car the day before, sans stripes.

Here, I’ve cut off the Cooper S badge with dental floss. It was a hot day, and I didn’t even need to heat them with a hair dryer or anything. As you can see, very little glue was left behind and the little that was peeled right off with a fingernail. A dash of WD40 dissolved the remnants. Note that I’ve marked the location of the old badge with bits of masking tape- this will be my guide for replacing the badge after I’m done.

I placed a strip of clear tape across the badge prior to remval- this way, if I ever need or want to re-use it, I won’t have to worry about getting it straight.

The strips all laid out and ready to go.

The nice thing about Cabrio stripes are the rounded notches a the bottom of the stripe that fit around the external trunk hinges. Even still, we had to adjust the tops of the stripes a bit to assure they were equally spaced. The stripes, still on their backings, are secured with masking tape at the top, bottom and center. I recommend taking your time, getting them straight then walking away for a few minutes to make sure they really ARE straight before the next step.

The top edge of the stripe is un-taped and the backing is peeled away down to the middle tape. The top half of the backint is then trimmed off with scissors. Here, the backing has already been trimmed away, leaving the top end of the stripe to dangle. It’s squeegee time!

Holding the top end of the stripe AWAY from the car, smooth the stripe gently, but firmly upwards. Your first instinct here is to go fast, lest the sticky stripe fall and cause a bubble. RESIST THE URGE and go slow, “sweeping” gently upwards. This will greatly reduce the number of air bubbles in the vinyl later.

Smooth the top half all the way to the chrome top of the boot (you should have about half an inch extra- don’t worry about that yet. After, lift the bottom half of the stripe and repeat the process, using the same even motion as before. We found it helpful at this stage to have a second person hold the two “halves” that bracket the chrome hings, just to be sure, but you can probably do it all alone. Just work slow.

Repeat on the other side. Here, I’m trimming off the top half of the backing from stripe #2.

…then smooth the top half down. Note how I hold the exposed sticky end AWAY from the paint, letting the squeegee do all the work.

When the top and bottom are secure, trim away some of  the excess with a razor leaving enough to wrap over the top edge as seen above, being careful to not cut into a rubber seal or into the paint. Again, Cabrios are wonderful for this since their boots are hinged on the BOTTOM edge.

Once you have all the edges firmly squeegeed down, get a fingernail under the clear plastic top sheet and GENTLY peel it back. We can’t be sure, but we are fairly certain that the tiny air bubbles we saw in our boot stripes were actually caused by the top layer being peeled off and taking a bit of the vinyl with it, and not by us accidentally trapping air under the stripe- in a few places the top coat was so sticky that it pulled off pinholes of the black stripe material. We’ll try to fix them with a black ink dot in the morning, but we did get a few pinholes in the black part, which was frustrating. Also, DON’T FREAK OUT if you have a few bubbles after this step- I talked to at least a dozen people before doing this, and they all told me that a few days later the vinyl “shrunk” down till all were no longer noticable. In other words, don’t start sticking the bubbles with pins if you see any- wait a few days and see if they go away all by themselves.

Mini Boot Stripe Installed

The chrome replacement badge comes on a tape strip, too. Align the badge using your tape marks from step 1and then press ‘em on..  Peel the tape away and you are done.

Complete and Looks Great!

Mathew Cook (ImagoX) was nice enough to allow us to use his how-to install Mini Cooper boot vinyl stripes and pictures. Mathew Cook is the Author of the Popular Blood Magic book series that was nominated for the Gaylactic Spectrum Award.  Check out his books below!

Blood Magic

Blood Magic - Nights Of Sin

Good thing that he is also a Mini Maniac and provided us with some really good info for the site.

Alternative how-to Youtube Video Created By:dlopez8a

A simple a quick video on youtube with some helpfull tips for installing vinyl stripes on the boot or hatch lid of your Mini Copper.