Applications: 1st Generation Mini Cooper S(Guide may work for non S as well.  This guide is based off a 2005 Mini Cooper S.  Years may differ slightly.

Original Post By Gerldoc (Melanie Martin) at the North American Motoring Forums.  Gerldoc is Famous for her Girls Guides post for the Mini Cooper.

This Guide can Be Used to Help install Aftermarket Bumpers Like the one below.

Note that I did not write down the various sizes of the bolts and screws – if I recall correctly, I used 8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm and 16 mm sockets to remove them. I also used the socket extension.

Similarly, I did not list the torque settings used when replacing all of the bits. Consult a Bentley’s manual or post a query for the answers. If someone wants to list all of the torque settings used in the tutorial and send them to me, I would be happy to insert them.

As with any DIY procedure, be careful, and do it at your own risk!!!

I hope that you find this helpful – it sounds daunting, but really is not bad at all – just be organized!

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:

1) Metric socket wrench set – and a 3 or 4 inch extension will be very handy for this particular task.

2) Jacks and jackstands/ramps.

3) One size 30 Torx bit and driver.

4) Phillips and slotted-head (the regular kind) screwdrivers.

5) Two M8 x 100mm hex-head bolts, or a set of the Mini engine extension pins.

6) If you are removing the dipstick guide tube, a new O-ring.

Not absolutely necessary, but very helpful:

1) A second jack.

2) Needle-nose pliers.

3) A miniature-sized slotted head screwdriver.

4) Short-length/stubby-sized Phillips and slotted-head screwdrivers.

5) A sheet of paper upon which to rest the various bits – labeled under each with the location and side.

6) Masking tape and a pen.

7) Red fingernail polish.

A helper or a cardboard box that can fit under the front bumper of the car. It doesn’t have to fit exactly – if it’s up to 6 inches shy, that’s OK.

9) Several NEW expansion rivets/screws. These can be purchased from a Mini dealer for about $2.15 apiece. Since it is very easy to ruin the screws (and rivets) in the process of removing them, new ones would be good to have to replace the buggered-up ones!

10) Your favorite after-the-job-is-done vice!

REMOVING THE Mini Cooper’s BUMPER:
STEP ONE:

Jack up the front of the Mini Cooper, and place jack stands under the jack points of the car (there are two, located towards the front of the car and visible under the door sills). It is a good idea to leave the jacks in place as well, in the event the jack stands should fail.

Put the key in the ignition, and turn it so that you can turn your Mini Coopers wheels all the way to one side, and the other. Turn the front wheels to the right first. Looking under the driver’s side wheel well, you will see that there are several plastic screws holding the well to the car. You are going to remove these four at the front of each well:

These are plastic expansion rivets. Removing them is a hassle, because the plastic screw heads easily “cam out”. One relatively easy way to remove them is to use a slotted head screwdriver or needle nose pliers and place the tip in one of the two slots on the top of the rivet. Using the Phillips screwdriver, carefully begin to remove the screw. Once it is a bit loose, use your fingers to unscrew it the remainder of the way – this will help preserve the screw. Once the screw is removed, you can simply pull out the rivet. Do this on each side of the front wheel wells.

STEP TWO:

Remove the plastic engine shield. This is located directly under the engine on the underside of the car. It is held in place by a Phillips screw at each corner towards the rear of the car. The front part of the shield is sandwiched between the spoiler and the bottom of the bumper.

Remove the three silver-colored hex-head bolts located in the center underneath the spoiler. After you loosen/remove these, the engine shield will slide back for removal. Set it aside.

Remove the two Phillips screws (one per side) located on the underside of the corners of the bumper.

STEP THREE:

Locate the little “window” cut in the front of each wheel well. Looking in, you will see two screws at 90 degrees to one another. These are the vertical and horizontal bumper adjustment screws. Remove both of these on each side. The 3 or 4 inch socket extension facilitates the removal of the screw that is pointing upward.

Now face the Mini Cooper. Ready your helper, or place a cardboard box, etc. under the front and center of the bumper. Remove the two #30 Torx screws located on either side of the radiator. These secure the bumper to the modular front end. Once these are removed, you can carefully pull away the bumper by tipping it upwards a bit and sliding the tabs at the center of the bumper out from the slots. Have your helper hold it up, or rest it on the box.

STEP FOUR:

Locate the three wires in the headlamp socket. One goes to the indicator light, one to the fog light, and one to the headlamp

I wrote the locations (“fog”, “head”, etc.) of each of the three lights on masking tape, and taped them to the wires, so that I would not plug the wrong light during re-assembly.
Remove the indicator bulb holder by twisting it 90 degrees anti-clockwise and pulling it out. Remove the fog and headlamp bulb holders by using the miniature slotted-head screwdriver and pressing down to lift up the clip, as shown below:

Locate the temperature sensor at the bottom right (as you face the car) inside the bumper. This just slips out from its holder.

Once the wires and sensor are removed, you can pull the bumper from the car. Set in on a blanket/safe area.

REMOVING THE BUMPER CARRIER

The bumper carrier is made of aluminum. It holds the bumper to the modular front end.

STEP ONE:

There are only a total of 10 screws that attach the bumper carrier to the modular front end, five on each side. You will need to remove all of these:

The socket extension comes in handy to remove screw #3.

STEP TWO:

You will need to unbolt the crush tubes (one per side) from the subframe, and remove them. I had to use a breaker bar to free mine. If you do not remove these tubes, the modular front end cannot be pulled away from the engine block. The crush tubes are located off to the sides under the front of the car:

Lift off the bumper carrier and set it aside.

STEP THREE:

Screw the 8M x 100mm bolt/engine extensions into the hole shown in the photo. Once secure, pull the entire modular front end towards you.

CONGRATULATIONS, YOU ARE NOW IN SERVICE MODE!

Compatibility: Second Generation  (2007=) Turbo Charged Mini Cooper.

ALTA Performance has designed a Cold Air Intake System that not only looks great but Provides a significant improvement in Horsepower and Torque.

Parts Included with the ALTA R56 Cold Air Intake system:
ALTA R56 Air Box Shroud
ALTA Air Filter 2.75” ID
2.75” Silicone Elbow
3.25”-2.5” Silicone reducer coupler
4x  Size 48 hose clamps
Size 36 hose clamp
2x M8x40 Hex head bolt
2x M8 Flat washers
2x M8 fender washer
2x M8 Nut
ALTA badge

Removal of factory air box:  Note:  Take great care with your MAF Sensor

1 Open hood and disconnect the batteries – terminal. (Battery is located in passenger side window cowl cover)
2 Locate MAF sensor housing, and remove hose clamp securing MAF housing to turbo inlet hose.
Remove Electrical connection on MAF sensor.
3 Remove Air box top from OEM air box bottom.  Remove top by loosening 4 torx screws on front side of box.
Once loosened, lift front forward and take off the clips at back of box.
4 Unbolt MAF housing from air box top. Take extreme care in not dropping MAF housing, as this is an easily damaged item

5 Locate fresh air pipe where it enters air box bottom.
This connection releases by twisting roughly 60 degrees, then pulling straight off.
There is a large o-ring located behind this flange and can make the tube very hard to remove from air box.
Spraying down with some penetrating lube will help removal of pipe.
6 Remove torx screw located on passenger side of Air box bottom and remove air box from car.
Three other rubber snaps hold box bottom to intake manifold.

Installation of ALTA intake system:

1 Using supplied M8 bolts nuts and washers, install ALTA Mini Cooper R56 air box shroud onto intake manifold
and run bolts bolts through rubber mounts.
Carefully reach under box and manifold to install and tighten nuts and washers.
Make sure to leave rubber bushings on manifold as this provides some dampening from vibrations.
Tighten hoses clamps on fresh air tube and air box after bottom is fully installed and tightened.

AIR BOX SHROUD BOLTED TO TOP OF INTAKE MANIFOLD USING SUPPLIED BOLTS
2 Install supplied Silicone reducer coupler onto fresh air pipe and install hose clamp, but leave loose until ALTA shroud is tightened.
PICTURE SHOWING Mini Cooper MAF HOUSING, FRESH AIR PIPE, ALL CONNECTED TO AIR BOX SHROUD
(NO SILICONE ELBOW)
3 Install MAF housing back into Turbo inlet hose and tighten hose clamp securing MAF to inlet hose.
NOTE: Make sure to install housing in same direction it was removed.
The 2 bolt flange should be on the opposite side of Turbo inlet hose.
4 Install Silicone elbow (ALTA logo is readable) to MAF sensor housing and to upper Air box shroud tube fitting.
Make sure to install two size 48 hose clamps to elbow to secure hose to air box, and MAF housing.
European spec cars will need to install supplied tube after MAF housing to correctly connect to the turbo inlet.
5 Install supplied ALTA filter to inside tube fitting on air box.
Make sure to wipe out excess oil from inside of filter. Failure to do may cause filter to fall off of air box.

MAF SENSOR AND SILICONE ELBOW INSTALLED TO AIR BOX SHROUD

6 Re-connect MAF sensor plug and (-) battery terminal and start car.
7 If car starts and runs properly, continue to next step.

Shown with older trim installed edge of air box. (not included)

Hood Scoop removal(optional)
1 Remove black plastic hood scoop plug by removing OEM scoop.
To remove scoop locate plug under hood, and remove to reveal screw.
With screw removed, scoop is held in place with snaps, which are very tight!
Pull straight up on scoop to remove; this step takes a lot of force.
2 With scoop removed, remove black plastic scoop plug by removing screws holding it to scoop.
Take great care not to damage paint during this process.
3 Install scoop back onto hood, making sure to secure with both the snaps and screw removed earlier.
It requires some force to get the snaps back into place.

Purchasing, Dynographs and Information Can be Found By click on the Logo Below.

Available in Both Black and Red

Second Generation Turbo Charged Mini Cooper.

ALTA Performance has designed a Front Mount Intercooler that not only looks great but Provides a significant improvement in Horsepower and Torque.

In a very short amount of time you can get one of the biggest horsepower increases for your Mini Cooper S or JCW

Parts included with the ALTA R56 Front Mount Intercooler are:

ALTA R56 Front Mounted Intercooler
Bubble on Side Trim
Zip Ties

Removal Of Front Bumper and OEM Intercooler:

1. Open hood, locate and remove (6) pop-its fasteners from upper grill.

2. Remove the lower Chrome trim from your Mini Coopers upper grill. Trim is released by pulling up on small tabs on back of trim.

3. Locate 4 tabs sticking out from lower part of upper grill and push to side to release upper grill.

4. Locate the 2 Torx Screws behind grill and remove.

5. Remove 4 screw-in pop-it fasteners on lower half of inner fender liner on both side of your Mini Cooper.

6. Locate and remove fog light cover on inside of fender well, and unplug fog lights and driving light plugs.
On passenger side, locate and unplug air temp sensor.

7. Pull back your Mini Coopers fender liner, locate and remove side marker plug, and pop-it connector holding upper and lower bumper together.

8. Remove first 3 points of connection on fender flair.  To release fittings use needle noise pliers to squeeze fitting from behind. (Note:These fittings are fragile, be careful when pulling bottom half of fender flair)

9. With lower part of fender flair pulled back, locate and remove (Torx) screw behind fender flair holding bumper skin to body.

10. Under bottom of bumper, locate and remove 2 Torx screws and 4 Pop-it fasteners.

11. Carefully remove bumper from car, and place on smooth clean surface.

12. Locate 2 torx bits holding OEM intercooler to chassis, and remove.

13. Take note as to direction hose clamps were facing before loosening.
Loosen clamps securing boost tubes to intercooler.
Note: Using a bent awl will help to free up rubber boost tube around intercooler.

14. Remove intercooler from car by carefully pulling and twisting intercooler from boost tubes.

15. Using picture below, locate and trim off plastic bracket that is in front of AC condenser.
Test fit ALTA intercooler to chassisto ensure enough has been removed.
Note: Using an Air tool, or Dremel tool will make for easy removal of plastic.

16. Due to the tight clearance between intercooler inlets and chassis, some shaving of plastic may be needed.
We recommend temporarily installing intercooler to determine if clearance needs to be made.
Using Dremel Tool or Air tool, remove material as needed.

17. Install ALTA intercooler in place of Mini Cooper’s OEM intercooler, and connect boost tubes to intercooler.
Before tightening clamps, ensure they are positioned properly to allow access to nut.

18. Once intercooler is installed and hose clamps are tightened, install supplied trim to upper edge of bumper beam.
Face the “bubble” part of trim toward intercooler.
The trim is used to add insulation between intercooler core and beam.
Note: Remove “bubble” portion from trim where it passes over intercooler core on outside edges.

19. Start car and make sure no Check engine lights appear, and engine runs smoothly.
If engine runs rough or CEL is on, check for poor seal/connection of boost tube to intercooler.

20. On back of bumper locate Air temp sensor and unclip from bumper and ziptie to wire harness.
21. On backside of bumper, locate small diverter and trim from bumper using X-acto or razerblade knife.

22. Determine if OEM grill is to be left in bumper. If grill is to be left in bumper, temporarily install bumper to car and locate tabs on backside of bumper and trim down slightly to add clearance.

23. If grill is to be removed, unsnap from bumper opening, and install bumper cover onto car.
Locate tabs that interfere with intercooler and trim off.

24. Once bumper cover is trimmed, reinstall back onto chassis. Start with step number 10 and work backwards.

25. Once installation is complete, again, start car and make sure no check engine lights appear.

Picture of Fully Installed Intercooler

Purchasing, Dynographs and Information Can be Found By click on the Logo Below.

Available in Both Silver and Stealth Black

Fancy Music Included This is a very simple procedure to do however since Whiteroofradio was nice enough to make a video how-to diy guide we decided to post it anyways.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7_cHNDN_wM

Total time: 10 minutes.
Proper torque is 25lbs

Oxybluecoop is an active member on the Motoring Alliance mini forum and we are proud to have one of his diy how-to’s for the Mini Cooper on our site.
Check out the winning post: How to Seafoam your Mini Coooper
If you are interested in winning free  parts check out: Free Mini Cooper Parts

The Free giveaways are made possible by you supporting our advertisers.
Thanks again everyone and we are already in the process of getting the next prize ready!

Original Post From Owen at The Mini Club Of Ireland
Owen was generous enough to send us the link VIA our Facebook Account

Please check out their site its very well laid out and I must say the graphics are very eye pleasing.

The donor Mini Cooper t is Gosia’s R52 Blackeye Purple Cabrio (, and her stereo is of the boost variety. However, it will work equally well with wave, or Harmon Kardon, you just need the various adaptor looms. So, I’ll work away with pics, and step by step instructions :

Here’s the unmolested MINI Cooper Interior. The parts that will be coming out, are the cowling under the steering column, the left and right downtubes around the radio, the dashboard panel around the speedometer, and the radio itself.

I haven’t shown the removal od the Steering Column plastics, but it’s very very easy. Just move the steering column up to it’s highest position, insert your hands into the gap below the steering column, and pull down sharply. It will hinge out, and you can store it somewhere for replacement later. In this image, you can see me removing the 4 Torx T30 bolts that hold the down tubes in place. Remove and store them for replacement later.

Here’s how you remove the panel around the speedo, there’s 2 Torx T20 bolts hidden at the top of the panel, undo these two first of all and store them carefully. Then take each air vent closest to the speedo, and firmly rotate them 1/4 turn, they’ll pop off easily then. Finally, firmly grasp the plastic panel underneath the speedo itself and pull outwards. The panel will hinge out about 1 inch to allow easy removal of the downtubes.

Here you can see the right hand down tube removed, and the left about to be removed. Gently push the downtube towards the floor, and hinge forward. You should then be able to pull them out and upwards. Be warned on some late 05 models, it is impossible to pull them out and up, merely out – they’ll stay in place at the bottom.

Remove the 4 Torx T20 bolts holding in the radio, and pull the radio itself forward. Release both the wiring loom, and the antennae loom, and this is what you’ll be left with.

The Dension ICE>Link loom couldn’t be simpler to install. It’s shaped like the letter Y, one end goes into the radio, one goes into the loom where the radio was, and the other leg goes into the iPod interface. Here you can see one end plugged into the radio, and the other in my hand. It’s impossible to confuse these, as they’re in a male/female configuration, and you can’t plug the wrong connector into the wrong socket.

Here you can see me connecting the second leg of the Y wiring loom back into the car’s electrical system. It’s that simple, just push it in, and it’s done.

And here’s the 2 connectors mated together. The sheep at the bottom of this photo looks particularly smug for some reason

In this photo, you can see the last leg of the Y loom at the top, it’s the one with all the colour wires, and inside my fist is the ICE>Link itself. Simply push these two together and …

… you end up with one end of the ICE>Link connected.

Here’s the other side of the ICE>Link, and again, simply push these two connectors together and you get …

… the finished product. The final cable you connect actually goes to the iPod cradle. The iPod cradle comes with a no-holes mount, and when you reassemble the car, you simply hold it against the radio, and screw the radio back in as normal … the radio holds the bracket in place. Reassemble everything slowly, and don’t force anything back into place. When it’s all done, you should end up with something a little like this …

And as you can see, the track name is showing on the head unit itself. Not all MINI head units support the track names, but they all support the ICE>Link. It simply fools the headunit into thinking it has a CD Changer instead of an iPod.

Big thanks once again to Owen at The Mini Club Of Ireland!

Sponsored by:

Mini Coopers need more negative front camber for anything other than straight line racing and driving. Increasing negative camber allows more even tire wear and improves lateral load traction. Here’s a way to get a little FREE negative front camber. That is, nearly free; this is a built-in solution so there are no parts to buy, but you’ll need an alignment after.

Tools Needed to Adjust The Mini Coopers Camber

Pliers
Short Screw
Screw Driver
Tape
Car Stands
Hydraulic Jack

Mini Cooper Camber Adjustment Procedure:
Place the front of the vehicle on stands, apply tape around the base of the nylon stud to protect the paint, screw a short screw in the top of the nylon stud to prevent it from collapsing when gripped, grasp with pliers and extract the stud.

Place a jack under the Mini Coopers front wheel, loosen the strut nuts and lift the wheel enough to raise the nuts from the strut tower, reach above the tire and push the strut towards the engine. Tighten the nuts to 25 ft-lb. Remove the jack and lower the vehicle.

Original Post from Keith Owner and operator of Werkin Mini.  The post can be found at the Motoring Alliance Forums

1. Start the engine
2. Press and hold the flat tire reset button (its located between the seats) for 5 seconds.
3. Release button and start driving.

You will have to wait few minutes before the Flat Tire Monitor will reset itself.

2007 MINI Cooper & S Coupes

1. Start the engine.
2. Briefly press the button in the turn indicator lever repeatedly until “SET/INFO” is displayed(push the turn signal in.
3. Press and hold the button until the display on your speedometer changes.
4. Briefly press the button repeatedly until the corresponding symbol and “RESET” are displayed.
5. Press and hold the button until the display changes.
6. Your done Start driving.

Source: MiniMania

Service Menu Access:

1. Insert Key
2. Do not press clutch and/or brake
3. Press Start button
4. Wait until the relevant Service symbol disappears on the Rev counter display
5. Immediately after the symbol goes out – Press and hold Both buttons on the Rev Counter
6. Continue to hold – The system will run a dash light check
7. Continue to hold – Display will then show VIN / Menu.
8. Continue to hold through this until the time reappears on the display.
9. Release ONLY the Right Button (Trip Reset) for about a second, and then press and hold again (whilst still holding the LH button).
10. The display will show the Front Brake Symbol. You are now in the Service Menu
11. Using the BC Button on the indicator stalk to scroll through to the relevant symbol – i.e. Rear Brakes

12. To Reset the warning indicator light – Press & Hold the BC Button at the relevant symbol until RESET appears – then press and hold again until the process is complete.

13. Turn Off and On the Ignition again – Warning should now have gone.

Original Post By Nathan the founder of the Motoring Alliance Mini Cooper Online Community

Sponsored by:

Increase your Mini Coopers potential by upgrading the sway bar.  An upgraded swaybar will help your Mini Cooper put more traction to the road and balance your cars handling.

Tools Needed:

13mm, 16mm, 17 mm, and 21mm sockets
Ratchet
17mm open end wrench
Breaker bar
Socket extension
Pry bar
Torque wrench
Materials:
Automotive jack
Jack stands
Wheel chucks

Lift Your Mini Cooper high enough to work underneath the rear, support the rear of the Mini with stands and place wheel chucks in front of the front wheels. Remove the rear wheels using a 17mm socket and breaker bar. Use a 17mm open end wrench behind the swaybar on the drop link bolt to hold it while removing the nut with a 16mm socket and ratchet.

Take the brake line and ABS sensor wire off the strut.

Loosen the rear strut lower support bolt with a 21mm socket.

Remove both struts’ upper bolts with a 13mm socket.

Move the strut out of the way on one side, and on the side the bar is to be pulled from, remove the strut entirely.

Remove the outer subframe bolts with a 16mm socket; a long breaker bar will make it easier to loosen the bolt and a socket extension to help access it, use a ratchet to unscrew the rest of the way out.

Remove the inner subframe bolts.

With the subframe disconnected and lowered slightly, a ratchet will fit above the rear bolt head on the swaybar bracket; remove the sway bar brackets.

Use a prybar to persuade the subframe to drop a little more, allowing the swaybar end over the subframe bracket. Caution, only force the subframe the minimum distance required to let the swaybar past.

The MCS has battery cables routed behind the subframe; take care when pulling the swaybar out. A standard Cooper doesn’t have these in the way.

Install the new swaybar in reverse procedure.

Fasten the swaybar bushing mounting brackets; apply torque at 14 ft-lb.

Start the outside subframe bolts first. In order to align the subframe hole with the chassis bolt hole, grasp the swaybar, push upward and towards the vehicle’s front. Screw the bolt in about half way.

If it’s difficult to get things to line up, use something that will insert into the alignment hole on the subframe bracket, leveraging the subframe into place. I’m using a centering bar in this picture.

Move the struts back to their original orientation. Install the subframe center bolts; screw in until almost tight, also screw in the outer subframe bolts until almost tight, tighten the middle bolts, then the outer bolts. Loosen the bolts again to allow the subframe to release some tension, starting with the middle bolts torque to 74 ft-lb.

Place the jack’s lift pad under the trailing arm and raise the strut into position so the upper mounting bolts can be fastened; torque the bolts to 41 ft-lb.

Torque the rear strut lower mount bolts to 103 ft-lb.

Attach the swaybar drop links and torque to 41 ft-lb

Put the brake cable and ABS wire back in their places on the strut body.

Mount the wheels; in a cross pattern, torque the lug bolts to 89 ft-lb, and lower the vehicle

Original Post from the Lone Star Mini Club by k-huevo at the Lone Star Mini Club

Sponsored by:

Installing worn or broken spring can bring back new life to your Mini Cooper as well as help with performance.  If your looking to change or replace your suspension springs to lower your car or to increase performance this guide will help take you through the process step by step.

Tools Needed:
13mm, 16mm, 18mm, and 21mm standard sockets; 21mm strut socket BMW # 31 2 210 (Hazet)
Long 6mm & 5mm Allen wrenches, 5mm Allen socket
16mm box end wrench, 17mm open end wrench
Ratchet
Long breaker bar
Dead blow or rubber mallet
Torque wrenches to accommodate 22 ft-lb to 103 ft-lb values R50-53, 121 ft-lb for the R56.

Equipment Needed:
Auto jack or lift
Vehicle stands

Alternative Tools:
Spring compressor
Air ratchet
Impact wrench and 21mm thinwall deepset socket

Lift the Vehicle and place on stands, remove the wheels, pull the front brake lines and ABS/pad sensor wire off the strut, and disconnect the stock drop link from the strut using a 16mm socket for the nut and a 17mm open end wrench to hold the bolt from behind the mount. The drop links shown during the spring install procedure are aftermarket that requires a 14mm socket and 13mm open end wrench.

Remove the pinch bolt with an 18mm socket, using a breaker bar to loosen and a ratchet to remove. R56 Models have a ribbed flare nut on the end of the bolt, loosen the bolt head only.

Apply lubricant to the lower end of the front strut where it enters the steering knuckle.

Place a stick on the jack’s lift pad and use as leverage under the lower spring perch to compress the spring and push the strut out of the steering knuckle. A few taps with a dead blow hammer may be needed to break it free. Exercise cautions if a hand is needed to stabilize the strut, do not place the hand or fingers between the strut & stick or any place where it could be trapped if the strut shifts abruptly.

R56 models will not require compression of the spring.

Unscrew the guide support nuts while grasping the strut, once freed, lower the strut carefully feeding past the brake line and wire then remove outward and upward from the wheel well.

Remove the bearing dust cap and place the strut on its side. Use a block of wood to leverage the Allen wrench and body weight to leverage the strut shaft nut using the special 21mm strut socket on a long breaker bar. This can be performed with the strut upright but it requires much upper body strength. Unscrew the top nut until the nylon lock has cleared the shaft threads(A spring compressor is highly recommended during this procedure!).

Without a spring compressor (A spring compressor is highly recommended during this procedure!) the nut can be removed safely using the “buddy method”. As a partner applies weight on the guide support, unscrew the last remaining threads, the partner releases pressure smoothly, and off comes the upper mount. justintime (seated) and simplekid15 (standing) demonstrate how it’s done.

A spring compressor will provide stability and facilitate removal if the install is performed solo.

The Mini Cooper R56 models have a nylon stud on the guide support, removing the nylon piece allows the guide support to shift a little, providing an extra half degree negative camber if desired.

After the replacement spring has been installed and the strut shaft nut tightened to 47 ft-lb, feed the strut into the strut tower, guiding the bolts through their mounting holes, while still grasping the strut, screw on the guide support nuts by hand to hold the strut in place then complete the fastening with a ratchet and torque to 25 ft-lb. For R56 models with the nylon stud removed, push the strut towards the engine to increase negative camber, before securing the nuts.

Clean the pinch bolt threads with brake cleaner and a wire brush; afterwards apply a small amount of anti-seize. The pinch bolts are exposed to oxidizing elements; anti-seize will help prevent a frozen bolt that could shear when attempting to extract.

Place a block of wood on the jack lift pad and raise the steering knuckle from under the outer ball joint nut. Mini Cooper S R56 location shown here.

Install and torque the pinch bolt to 60 ft-lb. On R56 models, after inserting the bolt hand tighten the end nut, apply torque to the bolt head only.

Torque the drop link to strut body at 41 ft-lb.

Be sure to place the drop link behind the strut to avoid making this mistake; oops.

Return the brake line and ABS wire to their strut body mounts and replace the bearing dust cover cap to declare the front strut has been completed; yippee!

Moving to the rear strut, remove the anti-sway bar drop link.

Pull the brake line & ABS sensor wire from the strut body.


Unscrew the bolts on the strut’s upper mount using a 13mm socket.

Loosen the lower strut bolt with a 21mm socket and breaker bar, attach a ratchet to unscrew, grasp the strut before removing the bolt completely to keep it from dropping and remove the strut.

Remove the strut shaft nut with a 16mm box end wrench and long 5mm Allen wrench. A spring compressor can be used on the stock springs but the H&Rs had to be installed using the “buddy method”.

Torque the shaft to 22 ft-lb using a 5mm Allen socket on a torque wrench in the reverse position while holding the nut with a 16mm box end wrench.

As with the front pinch bolt, clean the rear strut lower mount bolt and apply a small amount of anti-seize. Lift the strut into place under the vehicle and guide the lower mount bolt into place. Screw the bolt in until tight but don’t apply complete torque at this time.

Clean the upper mount bolt threads and apply a small amount of anti-seize. Raise the trailing arm with a jack and position the top of the strut within the chassis recess, line-up the upper mount holes and install the bolts, torque to 41 ft-lb.

Torque the lower strut mount on R50-53 models to 103 ft-lb; R56 models to 121 ft-lbs

Put the brake line and wire in their strut brackets, replace the lower bolt dust cover if your model has them, remount the wheels, torque the lug bolts at 89-92 ft-lb. for R50-53 models, 103 ft-lbs for R56 models, lower the vehicle.

Now go Get an Track Or Street Alignment!

Original Post from the Lone Star Mini Club by k-huevo at the Lone Star Mini Club

]]> http://www.minicooperspeed.com/mini-cooper-strut-springs-or-lowering-spring-installation/feed/ 4 http://www.minicooperspeed.com/how-to-seafoam-treatment-r55r56-mini-cooper/ http://www.minicooperspeed.com/how-to-seafoam-treatment-r55r56-mini-cooper/#comments Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:13:03 +0000 oxybluecoop http://www.minicooperspeed.com/?p=392 How to Clean and Remove Carbon Deposit buildup From Your 2nd Generation Mini Cooper

2007+ R55 R56

From:oxybluecoop

“I use Seafoam on regular basis on my Mini Cooper(right before my 3k oil changes) and was unable to find ANY videos of Seafoaming a MINI so I managed to throw together a quick video of some past treatments. I can’t emphasize enough how useful this product is on the N12/N14 engines with the high compression ratios and the PCV design. I’ve seen the cylinder heads from these engines after 20k+ and the amount of burnt oil/carbon buildup is ridiculous. You can pick a can up at Walmart or most auto parts stores for under ten bucks. Installing an Oil Catch Canister will also help in preventing sludge/carbon buildup. For you folks who are hesitant for fear of hydrolocking I’ve done this procedure every 3k for over 85k on the MINI and never had any catastrophic results. You will definitely notice a difference in performance after the treatment.”

This video was made by oxybluecoop over at the Motoring Alliance Mini Cooper Forum! The Motoring Alliance is a Mini Cooper forum/club that is very well organized, friendly and technical group that is open to all users for free!

Sponsored by:

Tools needed for subframe removal:

8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets
Socket extension
¼ drive and/or 3/8ths drive ratchet, ½ inch drive ratchet and/or long breaker bar
17mm open end wrench, (optional 16mm ratcheting box end wrench)
Phillips screw driver
Ball joint removal tool (BMW 32-3-090 or equivalent, KD3916 used)

Torque wrenches capable of 7 to 74 ft-lb range

Equipment:
Automotive hydraulic jack
Vehicle stands

Remove the reservoir bracket (10mm socket) and bend the heat shield upward to allow the reservoir to pass downward; it is easier to perform these steps before lifting the vehicle.

Place the vehicle on stands and remove the front wheels (17mm socket). Remove the lower steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt with a 13mm (ratcheting box end or ratchet & socket).

Remove the power steering fan (13mm) and unplug the connector.

Remove the bumper cover and bumper. Although this can be done solo it helps to have assistance holding the bumper cover while unplugging the light fixtures and thermometer.

Unscrew this bolt (10mm) connecting the radiator support to the crush tube.

Unbolt the crush tube (16mm); this is where a long breaker-bar or long handled ½ inch drive ratchet (recommended) come in handy.

Disconnect the drop link from the swaybar (16mm socket, 17mm open end wrench). The tie rod can get in the way for access with a ratchet so, either use a ratcheting box end wrench, disconnect the link’s upper mounting point first, or pop the tie rod ball joint. The sequence is not critical, but removal is.

Take the wheel speed sensor wire off its perch.

Xenon equiped vehicles will have a leveling sensor attached to the control arm (not shown), disconnect the connector.

Loosten the tie rod nut (13mm deep socket), unscrew up to the top, but leave in place to protect the bolt threads during the next step.

Pop the steering tie rod ball joint; be careful here because it will release energy violently so never operate a ball joint removal tool overhead (nut on bolt not shown).

Unbolt the outer ball joint bracket to steering knuckle (13mm).

Remove the lower engine vibration damper mount bolt (16mm).

Place the lift pad from an automotive jack under the round hole in the center of the subframe and raise the pad till it can support.

Remove the forward subframe mounting bolts (16mm).

Remove the other subframe bolts (16mm).

Lower the subframe enough to access the power steering connectors and unplug.

Continue to lower the subframe, go slowly making sure the power steering reservoir passes freely.

Roll the subframe from under the vehicle while continuing to monitor the power steering reservoir.

Install in reverse.

Torque values:
Subframe 74 ft-lb
Tie-rod ball joint 38 ft-lb
Outer ball joint to steering knuckle 41 ft-lb
Swaybar end link 41 ft-lb
Crush tube to subframe 74 ft-lb
Bumper to modular front end/crush tubes 16 ft-lb
Lower engine vibration damper 74 ft-lb
Power steering fan to pump bracket 14 ft-lb
Lower steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt 16 ft-lb
Bushing bracket to body, replace bolt, 44 ft-lb + 90 degee turn

The fuel filter is located in the right hand side fuel sending unit which is under the rear seat. In my photo there are items not to be found on a “stock” MINI. Remove the nuts with a 10mm; pry the lid up exposing the sending unit cap, brush and vacuum the SU cap till clean.

Wear chemical resistant gloves during the next steps and place a chemical resistant covering over the rear floor area and side trim. Cover the fuel line connector in rags, press the side tabs in and pull the line free. The fuel is under pressure in this step so take precautions to avoid overspray.

Loosen the locking ring with a large flat blade screw driver and tap with a hammer; unscrew the ring.

Lift the unit about 4 inches, grab the top and sides and twist to unlock, pull the cap off. This will require effort and perseverance to separate. The filter is now exposed; pull the filter from the sending unit. The filter will be blackened and soil everything it touches so change gloves after handling the filter. There will be brackish fuel in the sending unit to be siphoned off so the small O-ring can be removed and replaced.

Remove and replace the small and large O-rings on the cap.

Smear a small amount of Vaseline on the O-rings and sending unit gasket seal, put the gasket seal on the cap with the words “this side down” showing. Pull the sending unit up, press the new filter over the lower O-ring & post and press the two sending unit halves together, twist to lock. Slide the gasket seal down and press it into place with the fingers, working from one side to the other until it is flush.

Position the sending unit in the tank with the lid tab indexing the tank collar slot, screw on the locking ring, and tap with screw driver and hammer to tighten, push in the fuel line until the green locking tabs snap in place, re-fasten tank access cover.

Performance Camshaft Installation How to Guide for the R50 R53 Mini Cooper

Sponsored by:

If your Looking at installing a set of Cams to Your Mini Cooper R50 R53 look no further.  WerkinMini was on top of this by posting a how to install a set of performance Camshafts into your Mini cooper.  Check out there site http://www.werkinmini.com/ They have a smaller but much valued set of performance parts for the Mini Cooper.  They also perform performance services as well.

This how-to is meant as an overview of the procedure and not a substitution for professional installation and set-up.

There are alternate methods for holding the camshaft sprocket during bolt removal than using the BMW/MINI tool, but by far the OEM tool is the most secure and least likely to cause error; the author recommends it highly.

Replacing the camshaft sprocket bolt is required and installing a new cam chain tensioner is recommended.

Raise and support the front of the vehicle, and remove the right front wheel.  Removing the wheel is optional, but without it in the way avoids having to blind guide the socket on the cam chain tensioner bolt from the engine bay.

Remove the hydraulic engine mount nut with an18mm socket, and the grounding strap nut or bolt with a 13mm socket.

Early model R53s will include removal of the pitch bracket bolts with a 16mm socket.

Pull the hose and sensor wire anchors from the valve cover bolt (later models).

Raise the engine enough to lift the engine bracket off the hydraulic mount, place support underneath the oil pan.

Remove the engine bracket bolts with a 16mm socket, and remove the fuel tank vent valve.

For MCS models, remove the intercooler cover, front mount brackets (8mm), bellows clamp bolts (T-30), and intercooler, plus the rear IC mounts (8mm)

Clean the valve cover edges and area around the valve cover with compressed air to prevent surface dirt from contaminating the exposed valve train when the cover is removed.

Unclip the cam position sensor and pull the vent hoses from the valve cover.

On MC models unclip the injector connectors, pull up on red tab, push down on the connector body, squeeze black tab behind the red tab, and pull upwards.  Caution, these injector connectors are brittle, don’t force them off.

To remove the wire tray above the MC injectors, pull the front tabs towards you, and lift the tray up and back.

Next, unscrew the cam chain tensioner cover bolt (19mm).  It’s located to the left (facing the engine) of the oil filter housing on the backside of the block.  For the MC, a hose bracket will need to be bent slightly to gain access with a socket extension.

The Mini Cooper S poses a challenge because the coolant/oil heat exchanger is in the way.  A universal joint is helpful for breaking the bolt loose, and a wobble extension when applying torque to spec.  If a straight extension is used there is a risk of rounding off the bolt-hex because the socket will be cocked at an angle.

Remove the valve cover bolts (8mm deep socket), starting at the outer edges and progressively move inwards to the center bolts.

Remove the cam position sensor (10mm).

Using an18mm socket and long handle ratchet wrench, rotate the camshaft sprocket clockwise till the triangle mark points upwards.  Although the cam chain should not leave the sprocket for this procedure, for the sake of Murphy’s Law, mark the chain & sprocket for correct alignment if needed later.

The camshaft sprocket locking tool may take a few taps to drive the locking dowels in place.

Loosen the camshaft bolt before loosening the rocker rail bolts, but don’t remove completely.

Unscrew the rocker rail bolts in small increments; starting on the outside bolts moving in a circle inwards towards the middle.

Before removing the rail bolts, unscrew the camshaft bolt completely keeping the chain in place on the sprocket.  Pull the rail bolts, move the rockers to a side table keeping the intake and exhaust rockers in their respective locations.  Inspect hydraulic valve lash adjuster retainers for cracks.  Early model retainers are made of nylon and become brittle with age and numerous heat cycles.  Sometime in late 2006 durable metal retainers were used in place of nylon.

Remove the cam caps and place in the same order as they were on the head.

Wipe any oil from the contact surface on the cam towers and cam caps.  Clearances for the cam journals are very precise so the mating surfaces between the towers and caps should be free of fluid that may prevent complete occlusion.

Spread assembly lube on the tower and cap bearing surfaces, and on the cam lobes.

Place the cam caps over the cam in the same order they were originally.  Rotate the cam to line up the dowel to camshaft sprocket before tightening any bolts.

Place the rockers and rails on the head, making sure the tappet buckets are over and in contact with the valve stems.  Tighten the rail bolts in a couple turn increments starting in the middle and working outwards in a circle, final torque to 22 ft-lb.

Torque the camshaft bolt to 75 ft-lb.

Pour engine oil over the entire valve train, including springs and cam chain.

Put the valve cover back on and tighten the fasteners starting with the inside bolts moving outwards in a circle, final torque of 9 ft-lb.

Reinstall the remaining components in reverse order with these torque values: camshaft position sensor to head 7 ft-lb, engine bracket to engine 74 ft-lb, engine bracket to hydraulic mount 50 ft-lb, pitch brace 74 ft-lb, cam chain tensioner cover bolt 46 ft-lb, intercooler mounts and bellows clamp bolts 7 ft-lb, wheel lug bolts 90 ft-lb.

When the car starts for the first time, pressurized oil will fill the cam chain tensioner causing it to apply correct tension on the cam chain.  A short rattling/ratcheting noise may be heard as the tensioner extends.  The MINI is equipped with rocker rollers that allow it to be driven shortly after a new roller camshaft install, unlike other types of valve trains and follower cams that require a 20-minute break-in period with special rpm requirements.

Sponsored by:

Because the Mini Cooper crankcase vents into the intake system, crankcase vapors leave oil deposits in the intercooler; this film of oil interferes with the transfer of charge air heat. To keep the charge air cooler performing at high levels the Super Charged Mini Cooper’s intercooler should be cleaned periodically. Acetone is a relatively safe solvent that leaves no residues and is an excellent de-greaser. Performing a “wash” of the intercooler’s insides, requires some way of covering the end tank openings; one way is to use latex gloves folded over the openings with rubber bands securing the seal. I use OEM end tank plugs and plastic bags to close off the ends.

To clean: cover one end and poor a liberal amount of Acetone in the intercooler, cover the other end and rock the IC in all direction to give the internals a good wash, drain and rinse with more Acetone.

Compressed air can be used to accelerate the drying process.

The end tank bellows accumulate oil and should be cleaned also. Simple Green is a safe degreaser on rubber products (so is non-alkaline soap). A toothbrush will aid cleaning.

Before putting the IC and bellows on the vehicle, clean the input and output duct edges with non-chlorinated brake cleaner or Acetone. The bellows will seal best on completely oil free surfaces.

Original Post from the Lone Star Mini Club by k-huevo at the Lone Star Mini Club

Also check out the performance parts site www.werkinmini.com!

528im52 is promoting there topside oil change system for the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S Pre-turbo.  The BMP Design Top Change Oil system looks like it works great and makes changing your MINI’s oil a lot easier.

To Reset Service Indicator Oil Service on 2002-2006 Mini Cooper models :

1. Press and hold the trip odometer button.
2. Insert car key and turn it to the fi rst position
(not the second position).
3. You will see 51A come up in the trip odometer
area.
4. Release, then press and hold again.
5. Watch for the word “RST” to appear on the
Odometer indicator.
6. Release, then press and hold again.
7. Wait for the “RST” message to fl ash.
8. Release, and then press &
release
(once only).

To Reset Service Indicator Oil Service on 2007+ Mini Cooper models :

To enter the service Menu:

Insert Key

Do not press clutch / brake

Press Start button

Wait until the Car / revelant Service symbol disappears on the Rev counter display

Immediately after the symbol goes out – Press and hold Both buttons on the Rev Counter

Continue to hold – the system will run a dash light check

Continue to hold

Display will then show VIN / Menu, – continue to hold through this until the time Reappears on the display.

Now release Only the Right hand Button (trip reset) for about a second, and then press and hold again (whilst still holding the LH button)

After another second or 2 the display will show the Front Brake Symbol You Are

Now in the Service Menu

Use the BC Button (on indicator stalk) to scroll through to the relevant symbol – eg Oil Reset or Rear Brakes

To Reset the warning indicator light – Press & Hold the BC Button at the revelant symbol until RESET appears – then press and hold again until the process is complete.

Turn Off and On the Ignition again – Warning should now have gone!

Feel like saving yourself some money by changing your MINI Coopers oil?   This guide will show you how-to change your own oil and oil filter.

Tools/Supplies:

6 Quarts 5w30 oil (uses 4.4 quarts)
Oil Filter Kit
Socket set with a long extension… I used two together to reach the filter cap.
8mm hex socket or T-50 hex head oil drain plug.
8mm wrench to remove the coolant tank.
27mm socket for the oil filter cap.
Towels and cleaning supplies.
Rubber Gloves
Oil Catch Pan
Sheet for catching the stray oil.

Set the car up on ramps or on a secured jack.
Next I loosened the oil filler cap and unscrewed the 8mm hex socket or T-50 hex head for the oil drain.  Not all the way!  Put on rubber gloves and slide oil catch can underneith.

Loosen the oil plug bolt and allow the oil to drain into the catch can you placed below.  After the oil has drained loosen the (8mm wrench) coolent resevoir and move to the side.

Use the 27mm socket to unscrew the oil filter cap, removed it from the car, wipe everything clean,  Above you can see the socket and extension that was used for unscrewing the filter cap…

Now Reinstalled the oil drain plug (22.0 lbs/ft), and then the new filter and assembly(18.5 lbs/ft) added 4.4 quarts (roughly) of engine oil(do not reuse the old seals and make sure to use the new drain plug washer).

To Reset Service Indicators such as the Oil Service Interval.

To enter the service Menu:

Insert Key

Do not press clutch / brake

Press Start button

Wait until the Car / revelant Service symbol disappears on the Rev counter display

Immediately after the symbol goes out – Press and hold Both buttons on the Rev Counter

Continue to hold – the system will run a dash light check

Continue to hold

Display will then show VIN / Menu, – continue to hold through this until the time Reappears on the display.

Now release Only the Right hand Button (trip reset) for about a second, and then press and hold again (whilst still holding the LH button)

After another second or 2 the display will show the Front Brake Symbol You Are

Now in the Service Menu

Use the BC Button (on indicator stalk) to scroll through to the relevant symbol – eg Oil Reset or Rear Brakes

To Reset the warning indicator light – Press & Hold the BC Button at the revelant symbol until RESET appears – then press and hold again until the process is complete.

Turn Off and On the Ignition again – Warning should now have gone!

528im52 was nice enough to put this great how to video on youtube.  It features how to do a top side oil change using the BMP Topside Oil changer.

.

K03

Rumored 37mm Compressor Wheel

2007 + Mini Cooper S stock turbo Pictures

Hybrid may be possible if you do a K04 wheel and upgrading the internals aka thrust bearings, shaft, and larger turbine and compressor wheels. It was noted on the North American Motoring Forum that the k04 can go up to a 5mm wheel.

Stock Cooper S Turbo-Charger Pictures

Mini Cooper S JCW TurboCharger info:

Rumored to have a K03/K04 Hybrid

Rumored 41mm Compressor Wheel
20psi max
2mm larger Inlet

Mini JCW Compressor Map

Mini Cooper JCW Borgwarner OEM Turbo Pictures

528im52 has a bunch of Mini Cooper and BMW how to diy videos.  In this video he shows step by step how to replace your 2002-2006 Mini Coopers Cabin Air filter.  It’s a great instructional video that shows in detail the steps needed to easily replace the old filter.

For whatever reason you may need to remove your Mini Coopers Speedometer here is a two part diy speedometer removal guide made by war6763 on youtube.

I know when I first looked at my dash I had no idea that this many steps where involved just to remove that center unit!

Have fun and dont destroy your dash!  This will most likely apply to all the MINI line however year and trim levels may change the procedure.

Kerikino was nice enough to put this how-to on Sound Proofing your Mini Cooper R50 door panel.

He skips that actual placement and installation of the sound deadening material however it is pretty self explanatory.  He utilized the well known Elemental Designs Edead 80.

Edead 80 Info:

Sticks to facory Metals and Plastic Panels
Can be Appllied over oem sound deadening
High Temp Adhesive prevents falling or pealing off in warm climates
Multilayer Capable provides the ability of stacking to provide more deadening
No heat gun needed
Self adhesive Roll On installation

This step by step diy guide to installing the boot stripes for a Mini Cooper will easily take you from start to finish and help make that Mini Cooper stand out in a crowd!  A big Thanks goes out to Matt Cook for allowing us to use and archive this information.

Here’s the car the day before, sans stripes.

Here, I’ve cut off the Cooper S badge with dental floss. It was a hot day, and I didn’t even need to heat them with a hair dryer or anything. As you can see, very little glue was left behind and the little that was peeled right off with a fingernail. A dash of WD40 dissolved the remnants. Note that I’ve marked the location of the old badge with bits of masking tape- this will be my guide for replacing the badge after I’m done.

I placed a strip of clear tape across the badge prior to remval- this way, if I ever need or want to re-use it, I won’t have to worry about getting it straight.

The strips all laid out and ready to go.

The nice thing about Cabrio stripes are the rounded notches a the bottom of the stripe that fit around the external trunk hinges. Even still, we had to adjust the tops of the stripes a bit to assure they were equally spaced. The stripes, still on their backings, are secured with masking tape at the top, bottom and center. I recommend taking your time, getting them straight then walking away for a few minutes to make sure they really ARE straight before the next step.

The top edge of the stripe is un-taped and the backing is peeled away down to the middle tape. The top half of the backint is then trimmed off with scissors. Here, the backing has already been trimmed away, leaving the top end of the stripe to dangle. It’s squeegee time!

Holding the top end of the stripe AWAY from the car, smooth the stripe gently, but firmly upwards. Your first instinct here is to go fast, lest the sticky stripe fall and cause a bubble. RESIST THE URGE and go slow, “sweeping” gently upwards. This will greatly reduce the number of air bubbles in the vinyl later.

Smooth the top half all the way to the chrome top of the boot (you should have about half an inch extra- don’t worry about that yet. After, lift the bottom half of the stripe and repeat the process, using the same even motion as before. We found it helpful at this stage to have a second person hold the two “halves” that bracket the chrome hings, just to be sure, but you can probably do it all alone. Just work slow.

Repeat on the other side. Here, I’m trimming off the top half of the backing from stripe #2.

…then smooth the top half down. Note how I hold the exposed sticky end AWAY from the paint, letting the squeegee do all the work.

When the top and bottom are secure, trim away some of  the excess with a razor leaving enough to wrap over the top edge as seen above, being careful to not cut into a rubber seal or into the paint. Again, Cabrios are wonderful for this since their boots are hinged on the BOTTOM edge.

Once you have all the edges firmly squeegeed down, get a fingernail under the clear plastic top sheet and GENTLY peel it back. We can’t be sure, but we are fairly certain that the tiny air bubbles we saw in our boot stripes were actually caused by the top layer being peeled off and taking a bit of the vinyl with it, and not by us accidentally trapping air under the stripe- in a few places the top coat was so sticky that it pulled off pinholes of the black stripe material. We’ll try to fix them with a black ink dot in the morning, but we did get a few pinholes in the black part, which was frustrating. Also, DON’T FREAK OUT if you have a few bubbles after this step- I talked to at least a dozen people before doing this, and they all told me that a few days later the vinyl “shrunk” down till all were no longer noticable. In other words, don’t start sticking the bubbles with pins if you see any- wait a few days and see if they go away all by themselves.

Mini Boot Stripe Installed

The chrome replacement badge comes on a tape strip, too. Align the badge using your tape marks from step 1and then press ‘em on..  Peel the tape away and you are done.

Complete and Looks Great!

Mathew Cook (ImagoX) was nice enough to allow us to use his how-to install Mini Cooper boot vinyl stripes and pictures. Mathew Cook is the Author of the Popular Blood Magic book series that was nominated for the Gaylactic Spectrum Award.  Check out his books below!

Blood Magic

Blood Magic - Nights Of Sin

Good thing that he is also a Mini Maniac and provided us with some really good info for the site.

Alternative how-to Youtube Video Created By:dlopez8a

A simple a quick video on youtube with some helpfull tips for installing vinyl stripes on the boot or hatch lid of your Mini Copper.